Found. Subiaco review: Brewpub brings some buzz and friendly fun to Subi

There was a time, not so long ago, when driving through what was once a thriving Subiaco made me genuinely sad.

The buzzing hub I’d once wandered for a new outfit, stopped for a cappuccino at a cool cafe, before inevitably ending up at the Station Street Markets for a mango smoothie I still think about, had begun to feel like a scene from a zombie apocalypse. The markets were gone, shopfronts along the main drag were increasingly boarded up and fences and construction took over.

Aside from its “Paris end” — where Boucla, Lady Of Ro and Juanita’s continued to draw a loyal crowd — there wasn’t much to lure you back.

But slowly, surely, the dormant suburb began to stir. Spots like One Subiaco (RIP Subi Continental), Shui, La Condesa, and Lums Wine Bar (among firm favourites Lulu La Delizia and Cherubino City Cellar) opened their doors, and with them came a renewed sense of energy. The buzz only looks set to grow with the arrival of Subi East.

Newish to the strip is Found. Subiaco, a friendly Hay Street spot that takes its food as seriously as its brews — and it’s seriously restored my love for eating in Subi.

On a sweat-inducing Friday lunch, it’s packed. We opt for a high table outside in the colourful beer garden, savouring the gentle spray of the misters.

We could have gone for one of everything — the menu neatly divided into small, share, large, pizza and sides — but choose a few dishes to graze on before the steak frites.

Call me predicable, but if there is crudo on the menu, I’m ordering it. Found’s tuna crudo ($28) is sliced thin, but meaty enough to taste its flesh, complemented with discs of qukes and a bright lemon orange dressing.

Next comes summer on a plate, a vibrant garden of sweet heirloom tomatoes, scattered basil and mint, and a hunk of burrata in the middle ($32). The hero of the dish, though, are the wedges of watermelon coated in salty togarashi that add a chilli kick to every bite.

Service is excellent all round — not just friendly, but warm and fun, with staff who seem happy to be there.

As the plates are whisked away, down comes the angus sirloin with chimichurri (I’d have welcomed a smidge more) and generous pile of very good chips ($45). Perhaps not the smartest dish while we’re already perspiring, but we devour it all the same. A side of gem lettuce ($11) with a nicely balanced shallot vinaigrette helps cut through the richness.

And as we seagull our way over the final chips, before a wedding dress appointment at Natalie Rolt across the street, it strikes me that Subi is far from a ghost town.

Add a new spot to get a smoothie, and you’ve got the makings of the Subiaco of old — one I’m happy to have Found.

The verdict: 17/20

Subiaco’s spark is reignited at this buzzy beer garden, who takes its brews as seriously as its food.

Found. Subiaco

399 Hay St, Subiaco

OPEN Sunday to Thursday, 11am-10pm, Friday and Saturday, 11am-12am

BOOKINGS Yes

CONTACT foundbeer.au