Every day, thousands of tourists flock to the Jatiluwih rice terraces in Tabanan Province in central Bali.

A series of spellbinding rice terraces listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site, the views at Jatiluwih seem to come straight out of an oil painting.

But in recent years, Jatiluwih has become a bit of a tourist trap. More and more shops and restaurants are being built inside the rice fields — so many, in fact, that in December authorities sealed off 13 buildings for violating land-use regulations.

In response, local entrepreneurs covered the scenic spot with corrugated iron and black film, blocking views and putting a serious damper on the place. Fortunately, there is a plan B: a nearby place that’s just as blingy as Jatiluwih.

About 10km west of Jatiluwih as the crow flies — and about the same driving time from the popular tourist districts in Bali’s South — are the Belimbing rice terraces.

However, very few people know of them. When I visited, I saw about two dozen foreign tourists over the course of two hours.

After walking around Belimbing Village — more of a truck stop with a few local houses and shopfronts here and there — I chose one of half a dozen local restaurants for a spot of lunch.

As I walked down the long, winding driveway to eat at Warung Ravaya Arim, the owner, Ketut, came out to say G’day. With few customers (it was empty when I visited), everyone is greeted like a long-lost friend.

The views from the open-air restaurant were as grand as the welcome: emerald-green rice terraces rising along hills and falling into valleys like the keys of a giant green piano. The fields are interspersed with meandering brooks, Hindu shrines, and Mt Batukaru in the background.

“There are many reasons to come to Belimbing,” Ketut said.

”There’s no pollution. No traffic. It’s very peaceful. The views. And my wife Agung’s Mujair Nyat Nyat.”

The latter was in reference to the locally famous recipe for freshwater fish reduced in herbs and spices with a savoury-spicy flavour profile. The Nyat Nyat was as good as it gets, but even better was the fresh green banana juice – so sweet and supple it didn’t need any sugar, blended into a creamy texture.

As I ate, Ketut told me about the attractions around Belimbing. There are five Hindu temples in a spot about a kilometre north of the village.

The largest, Pura Panti Bendesa, dates back to the 18th century. Another kilometre to the north is Singsing Sade Waterfall, a great place for a swim. If you want to trek through the rice terraces, Ketut can arrange a guide for you. There are two-hour, half-day and full-day options.

The only hotel in town, Cempaka Belimbing Villas, is all right. They don’t really have villas, Ketut said, only big rooms. But he has one.

Ketut takes me for a walk to the next building, a double-storey stilt house made of ironwood from Borneo. The ground floor has a fire pit. The second floor is an outdoor terrace. On the third is one of the most rustic and romantic rooms I’ve ever seen. Everything is dark, made of wood. The doors have intricate carvings of animals and flowers. There’s a wraparound wooden deck that floats high above the rice fields. And with big picture windows, the views spill into the room.

As I leave, Ketut offers me a hug. Well, he doesn’t really offer; he just gives it, and it’s accepted. Halfway up the driveway, I see an elderly couple, Europeans by the looks of them, walking in my direction. I look back. Ketut is already walking towards them, smiling.

fact file

+ Belimbing rice terraces are on Jalan Antosari Pupuan, Belimbing Village, Tabanan, 90 minutes drive from the popular beach town of Canggu.

+ Warung Ravaya Arim charges about $5-$10 for a hot lunch and a cold drink. The villa is $70 per night with breakfast. Call +62 82146166199 or visit Instagram.com/ravayaarim to book

+ Cempaka Belimbing Villas charges $80-$90 for a room. Call +62 85100451178 for bookings.